Fairways Less Travelled – Golf in Ireland
Remembering the Road Less Travelled
By Sam Blackwell A week after returning, our seven days in Ireland seem like a whirl of formidable links golf courses, predictably unpredictable weather, sheep farms and walls made of stacked stones, singular dining experiences and endless glasses of Guinness. We also met lots of welcoming people who made our stay memorable. Irish Golf Vacations called our tour the Road Less Travelled because most foreign golfers head for golf courses that are more famous – names like Ballybunion, Royal County Down, Old Head, the K Club — than those of Northwest Ireland. Our tour would go places and play courses far off the been-there, done-that list. Rick and Michael are knowledgeable tour leaders who saw to every need, including the large, comfortable coach that delivered us from golf course to golf course. Kevin, our Irish driver, pointed out historic sites in Dublin after we arrived but also knew well the landscape along the 3-½-hour drive to Sligo on Ireland’s West Coast. Sligo is a delightful town, fun to walk around and filled with unique shops. The seafood paella at Hartigan’s is excellent, and so is the hospitality. We also liked the food and the folks at the Embassy, a wine bar and grill that serves a mammoth hamburger swaddled in bacon and cheese. Our hotel, the Sligo Park Hotel, is comfortable and has everything a golfer needs, from a hot tub and gym to a late-night bar. Our first golf course, Carne Golf Club, provided the most unforgettable experience of our trip. We expected a cold wind off Blacksod Bay, but a few holes into our round driving sleet began pelting our faces and numbing our hands. We hoped the squall would soon abate, as we were told the squalls usually do, but this one didn’t. Our group retreated to the clubhouse after five holes. The other group retired after nine. Never has a round of Irish coffee been more appreciated.[Gallery not found]
A selection of images from throughout the week
The following day at Rosses Point, the County Sligo Golf Club, we played a course where Padraig Harrington and Rory McIlroy have won Western Ireland Golf Championships on. The famous golfers who have played the course include Walter Hagen, Tom Watson, Nick Faldo, Byron Nelson and Bernhard Langer. It is a good test with ample variety in the holes. The sun sparkled the next day at Enniscrone Golf Club, a magnificent course on Killala Bay 50 miles from Sligo. Enniscrone offers the work of two designers: Eddie Hackett and Donald Steel. Hackett’s part of the course is open and bunkered while Steel’s winds through huge dunes. It is the best of two worlds of links golf. We left the next morning for Galway, the city known as Ireland’s arts capital. The St. Patrick’s Day Parade in Galway was a highlight some of the golfers in our group missed because they were playing at Connemara. At midday, bands and gaily dressed children wove through downtown Galway surrounded by festive onlookers, most of them wearing the green in some way – if only their hair color. Afterward everyone filled up the pubs for rounds of food and drink that rolled into the night. We read in the newspapers that St. Patrick’s Day parades are actually a tradition that began in America, but Ireland seems to have taken to it fully. In Galway, a big pub called Monroe’s was a favorite where we ate fish pie and Irish stew. At Connemara, the golfers encountered a landscape unlike anything they’d seen in Ireland before. Some described it as a moonscape. Sleet greeted the golfers in the morning, but by the afternoon they were playing in the sun. Everyone in Ireland is intensely interested in football, rugby, Gaelic football and jump racing. While we were there, the Festival at Cheltenham race played on every television in every pub. The Irish were very proud that their horses won some of the most important races. Glasson Park, a hilly parkland course between Galway and Dublin, offered us a pleasing final round before we returned to Dublin and then back to the U.S. Spending our last night in Ireland at the Portmornock Golf Club and Hotel outside Dublin was a final treat. The hotel is luxurious, the course inviting. The people of Ireland were warm and hospitable, and Ireland has some of the world’s best links golf courses. Ireland offers beauty and golf experiences available nowhere else on earth.














